A story told by kyr-Andreas of Exo Hora...

...who was 8 years old during the great earthquake of 1953. He clearly remembers the sound of the church bells been shaken by the troubled earth. At the time of the earthquake he was at the family 'ktima' (land) helping his parents with the usual farming chores.  Luckily only one wall of the family house came down during the shake, but Kyr-Andreas knew of many families that lost loved ones and their property  not only to the great earthquake but also to the uncontrollable fires that followed. Days later, when the whole island was flattened to a rumble the Air Forces delivered food supplies during a rescue operation. Kyr-Andreas talked about parcels of food (including bread and Dutch cheese) as well as crates of water 'parachuted' from the sky to the islanders...

We met kyr-Andreas at his kafenio/taverna opposite the great Platanos (plane tree) of Exo Hora.

Traditional Zakynthian house in Exo Hora

We asked him if he would like to share some of the local stories of the island with us, upon which invitation his eyes lit up and swiftly begun narrating one  eventful story after the other.  A grandfather of nine and a father of five Kyr-Andreas encapsulates the true Zakynthian spirit in his warm, hospitable, cheerful and 'cheeky' disposition.  What I remember of him mostly are his sea-like blue eyes and his broad, honest and giving smile. Kyr-Andreas did not want to be filmed as he did not want to "be seen on television", "laughed at by the neighbours" or "say something wrong  or inappropriate". Instead he asked us to write down what he said, which we happily did over a lovely cup of Greek coffee and a refreshing ice cream.

I asked Kyr-Andreas whether his name was the most popular on the island. He said that there are a lot of 'Andreases' around but the most common names are Dionysios (after the patron Saint of the island) and Nikolaos (another celebrated Saint). Other names included Spyridon (Spyros) and Gerasimos. As Zakynthos is a mountainous island farming has developed extensively especially in the Central and Northern regions. The villagers of Exo Hora, a small village between Agios Leon and Maries, are involved in farming occupations (such as animal breeding and olive oil production) as well as wine making and tourism operations.

Wine, olive oil and honey sold by villagers in Exo Hora

There is only one Primary school in the village that caters for approximately 12 pupils. For Secondary and High School students must travel to Volimes or Zakynthos Town itself. When students finish school they often leave the island  in favour of further education and/or a career opportunity in mainland Greece. Some return to the island as young adults but often people come back in their retirement.

We asked Kyr-Andreas to tell as about the main feature of Exo Hora, which is the old Platanos next to the historic church built in 1890. He said that a man from Roumeli (mainland Greece) brought a root which he planted at the centre of the village some 150 to 170 years ago. There is in fact a smaller, younger, Platanos that can be found next to the original. The smaller tree was planted in 1935. Legend has it that the Italian occupants uprooted the plant during the second world war but the tree eventually survived.

A family enjoying the shade of the big plane tree in Exo Hora 

Opposite the Platanos there is also an ancient olive tree with a very wide and peculiar trunk. According to kyr-Andreas the olive tree is thought to be about 2000 years old and in existence well before the villagers arrived to the area.

Ancient olive tree in Exo Hora

Finally we asked kyr-Andreas to tell us about the origin of the old wells (Pigadia) found in the village. The wells were built by the original families that came to (or more accurately built) the village. Each family would build their own well and to date they are the property of the original families' descendants. Most wells are still full of rain water which is at the disposal of the local families presumably for farming purposes.

Visitor exploring the Old Wells at Exo Hora, Zante

Filming at the Old Wells in Exo Hora, Zante

We left kyr-Andreas looking after his customers, an Italian family enjoying a lunch of souvlaki and salad on one table, a group of fire fighters waiting for their take away order on the next table and a couple of locals enjoying ouzo and meze on another one. We sat at the Platanos-shaded square jotting down Kyr-Andreas' last comments and listening to the constant calling of the cicadas. Then we got in the car and drove off in search of another destination and yet another Zakynthian story.